Santon Village – A Cultural Museum in Southern France
Twenty years ago, I was living in a small town in Southern France. I learned all about the culture and even brought a little piece of it home with me. I purchased a nativity set of little clay people known as santons. They’re indicative to southern France and are a great reminder to me of my time there. But the santons are more than the nativity – they make up entire santons villages.
Le Village des Santons en Provence (or Santons Village) is a small museum in the city of Aubagne (a short bus or train ride from Marseille). Discover the culture of the santons and life in the Provence with a visit to this hidden gem.
Here’s a rundown on what you can expect to find – and how to get there – at Le Village des Santons en Provence in Aubagne, France.
Getting to Le Village des Santons en Provence
Aubagne is on the outskirts of Marseille, France. You can take a bus, but the most direct route – especially from downtown Marseille – is on the regional train (RER). From the Aubagne train station, head south along Avenue Jeanne D’Arc for one block. The turn right (heading west) on Avenue Antide Boyer. Le Village des Santons will be on the north side of the road.
When you arrive, simply check in at the front desk. There is no cost to tour the exhibit, but the people at the front desk like to explain a few things about the history of the place and what you can expect on your tour.
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The two women at the front desk started to explain things in French. Since I speak French, it worked for me. But I wanted my wife and kids to know what was being said. The tour guide then did her best to explain things in English and she did a great job. I think she really enjoyed speaking English.
Following the short introduction, we were free to wander and see Le Village des Santons en Provence.
History of the Santons and this Museum
Aubagne is known as the “Capital of the santons”. That’s because it was in Aubagne where the santons we know today were created. The history of the santons is quite interesting, stemming back to the French Revolution when nativity scenes were pretty much outlawed. In 1797, a man in Marseille started making nativity pieces out of clay. In the 1900s, Thérèse Neveu from Aubagne thought it best to fire the clay to increase their durability.
The santons represent life in 19th century Provençal village. The pieces stretch beyond the standard nativity (Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, Magi, shepherds, cow, donkey, etc.). One very popular piece of the nativity is the Ravi – also known as the village idiot. He’s of a simple mind and easily delighted by the birth of Jesus, therefore his arms are in the air to show his happiness.
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Outside of the specific nativity scene, there are people from many areas of the village. The baker carrying a bag of flower. A basketmaker weaving his wares. A couple strolling down the street. The mayor. A fisherman. A woman collecting wood. The characters are endless – and it’s fun to see the variety.
The Santons Village in Aubagne is a relatively new museum. It consists of more than 3,000 santons figurines in 19 different village settings. They cover nearly 2,500 square feet and it took a couple of years to build. Seventeen different santons makers (known as santonieres) help decorate the museum and place the santons.
Don’t Miss the Back Room of Nativity Scenes
You don’t need to spend hours on end to fully experience this museum. You can see everything in 30 minutes or less. But I encourage you to spend long enough there to fully enjoy the detail that goes into each and every santons, and multiply that by the 3,000 on display.
At the back of the museum is the room pictured below. Each box on the wall features a different nativity scene from a different santonnier from the region. Look at the colors, faces and details in each one to see which artist’s style you prefer.
My wife collects nativity scenes from different cultures, so she really enjoyed checking these out. And if you’re hoping to bring some genuine santons to your home, read the next section below.
Where to Purchase Santons of Your Own
I purchased my original santons nativity set, including the manger, from a vendor at a Christmas market along the Canebiere (street) in Marseille. The Foire des Santons (Santons Fair) is a great place to see all the different vendors for santon pieces, accessories and décor. But if you can’t be in Marseille during the fair, there are a few shops in Marseille and Aubagne you can check out.
MARSEILLE
- Santons Escoffier (north side of Vieux Port)
- Santons Marcel Carbonel (south side of Vieux Port)
- Santon Didier (along La Canebiere street east of Vieux Port)
While in Marseille, we visited Santons Escoffier and purchased $130 in new santons to add to our collection at home. But if a trip to France isn’t in the cards for you, you can order santons online from some of the authentic Provencal vendors. I’ve hyperlinked the ones above that sell online.
AUBAGNE
- Santons Magali
- Santons Flore
- Chave Marius
We wandered the streets of Aubagne and found the many of the santoniers were closed. Not sure why – it wasn’t during the typical lunch hour. But you can always ask at the Santons Village where the best shops are to buy your own santons.
Aix-en-Provence
The Details
Address: 16 avenue Antide-Boyer, 13400 Aubagne
Costs: There is no cost to visit (Visite libre).
Hours of Operation: Hours vary by season. Visit their website for current hours.
Parking: There is street parking available in front of Le Village des Santons en Provence.
How long to spend: You can spend 30-45 minutes exploring the displays.
Website: https://www.aubagne.fr/vie-culturelle/lieux-culturels/village-des-santons-en-provence-552.html
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