Chateau d’If is an isolated fortress built on a rocky island off the coast of Marseille in southern France. However, it’s more than just a fortress – It’s the prison where Edmond Dantès was held captive in the book, The Count of Monte Cristo. The island fortress is open for tours year-round, offering visitors the chance to explore the prison and get some amazing views of Marseille.

Here’s your guide to visiting Chateau d’If (pronounced ‘shatoe deef’).

History of Chateau d’If

The fortress was built on the island of If in the early 1500s. It was intended to offer military protection to the city of Marseille should it ever be attacked. Chateau d’If has three levels, with windows for archers and guns.

By the 1800s, it was determined there was not a military role for the fortress. But with its position offshore, and strong currents in the waters below, Chateau d’If made the perfect prison (similar to Alcatraz off the coast of San Francisco). Anyone opposing official authority was imprisoned there. As keeping with the times, poorer prisoners were kept in the basement floors of the chateau. Wealthier prisoners could buy better “accommodations” on higher floors, offering better food and even a fireplace.

The chateau is likely most known for its role in the book, The Count of Monte Cristo, published in 1844. Edmond Dantès was wrongly imprisoned in Chateau d’If for 14 years. He did escape and went on to seek revenge on those involved in his misfortunes. It’s also rumored that the ‘Man in the Iron Mask’ was held for a time, but there are no records indicating he was ever in the area.

Chateau d’If was demilitarized in 1890 and opened to the public.

How to Get to Chateau d’If

Chateau d’If is only accessible by ferry boat. The Frioul If Express departs from the Vieux Port (Old Port) for the 20-minute ride out to Chateau d’If. Tickets for the boat are separate from tickets to visit the fortress, but can be purchased at the ticket counter located on the southeast end of Old Port. You can purchase tickets one day in advance. They accept cash (Euros) or credit card. If you want to visit the nearby Isle de Frioul, you can purchase at ticket to that island as well. I’ve never visited that particular island, so I don’t have information on that stop.

Boats to Chateau d’If may be canceled if weather and waves pose a safety issue, so be sure to plan accordingly.

Be in line a few minutes before your boat’s loading time. Once aboard, take a seat and enjoy the ride out of Old Port. In fact, Old Port is where that literary work by Alexandre Dumas begins. If you look south, you’ll see a church atop the nearby hill. Notre Dame de la Garde is in the opening line of the book, The Count of Monte Cristo:

“On the 24th of February, 1815, the watch-tower of Notre Dame de la Garde signaled the arrival of the three-master Pharaon, from Smyrna, Trieste, and Naples.”

When you arrive at Chateau d’If, disembark and head up the stairs toward the fortress. You’ll need to purchase your tickets to tour the island and chateau. It’s best to have cash (Euros) on hand, but credit card is also accepted.

What to See at Chateau d’If

If is a small island. The main attraction is obviously the chateau, but you’ll also notice a little lighthouse. You’re free to wander the island and explore everything inside and outside of the actual fortress. There are brochures in many languages, so pick one up to help you as you explore the chateau.

Inside Chateau d’If, you can walk see the varying degrees of prison cells – from dark dungeons in the basement to nice (which is a relative term) rooms on the higher floors. At the top, you’re offered some wonderful views of the nearby Frioul island, as well as the city of Marseille.

While in the dungeons, you’ll see where author Alexandre Dumas had his main character, Dantès, held as prisoner. You’ll see the so-called tunnel Abbe Faria dug to connect cells with Dantès. Chateau d’If has embraced the story of The Count of Monte Cristo and even had small TV screens playing scenes from the movie in the “actual” prison cells.

As you make your way to the higher floors, you’ll see signs with famous names of prisoners held in the fortress. As mentioned previously, there is a sign indicating the spot where The Man in the Iron Mask was held, but that’s just legend. But it’s cool to tell everyone you saw the room where the infamous man was held, right?

There is a gift shop if you need to pick up a little souvenir before heading back to the dock to board the boat back to Marseille. Hopefully you held on to your ticket for the boat, as they will ask to see it again as you board. The boat may head to Frioul island to pick up more passengers before heading back to Marseille.

The Details

Address: Access the boat to Château d’If at 1 Quai de la Fraternité, 13001 Marseille, France (That’s located on the southeast end of Vieux Port (Old Port)).

Cost: There are two costs for your visit: The boat ride and the fortress tour admission.

• 10,80€ per person for roundtrip passage to one island (If or Frioul). 16,20€ for a roundtrip ticket to both islands).
• 6€ per person for admission to Chateau d’If. Children under 4 are free.

Hours: The hours vary by season, but Chateau d’If is closed on January 1 and December 25.

• January 2 – April 1: Open everyday (except Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
• April 2 – September 30: Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
• October 1 – December 31: Open everyday (except Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Website: http://www.chateau-if.fr/en

If you have plans to visit Paris and northern France, be sure the Eiffel Tour is part of your visit.

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